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Posts from the ‘Fish’ Category

Salade Niçoise


Salad.  The word is ripe with meanings.  Could be dessert, breakfast, a hearty meal, a light spring side, could be greens and a little dressing or contain nothing green at all…might be the whole meal or just a nibble to whet your appetite.  I’m a big fan of savory salads that have intention, I love a composed salad, have a sweet spot for any salad with a hit of protein, and of course…add olives to anything and I’m in!

A niçoise salad hits every mark and is easily made almost any time of year!

This recipe comes from Around My French Table by Dorie Greenspan.  I first learned about this book via NPR and The Splendid Table with Lynn Rossetto Kasper who interviewed Dorie.  However, this salad hardly needs a recipe at all (but I posted it below).

We were inspired to make a niçoise after reading a Cook’s Illustrated review of canned tuna focusing not only on taste but also on sustainability and ethics of the company.  American Tuna came out on top…and when we spotted it while grocery shopping…we knew just what we would be making with it.

The tuna is worth the additional cost and the quality is outstanding.

Recipe (courtesy of Around My French Table by Dorie Greenspan)

8-12 small potatoes, scrubbed
2  5 to 6 oz. cans tuna packed in oil, drained
4 tomatoes, cut into chunks or 20 grape tomatoes, halved
3/4 lb. green beans, trimmed
4 hard-boiled eggs
about 20 Niçoise olives, pitted
2 tbsps. capers, drained and patted dry
8 anchovies, rinsed and patted dry (we skipped the anchovies)
4-6 handfuls of bibb lettuce
1 shallot, finely chopped
olive oil
light vinegar or lemon juice
chopped fresh parsley for garnish
salt and freshly ground pepper

Since it was just the two of us, we halved the recipe and the portions were very generous!

Start by cooking the potatoes in boiling and salted water.  You’ll want to cook the potatoes whole, they will hold their shape and look crisper for the salad.  Depending on the size, they should take between 10-15 minutes…and I would err on the shorter side.  You can test the doneness by piercing one of the potatoes with a paring knife.

We happen to have some hard-boiled eggs on hand from earlier in the week, but if they are not a standard in your fridge…go ahead and hard boil the eggs using your preferred method and make sure they have time to cool down before peeling and quartering them.  Depending on the size of tomato you use, quarter or half the tomatoes.

The green beans need only a very quick blanch in salted boiling water and a quick cool-off in some ice water.  Once you have all your ingredients ready to go – it’s time to pull it all together.  Mix up the dressing…a little olive oil, shallots and vinegar seasoned with salt and pepper.

Toss the lettuce with the dressing and pile high on the plate and then top with all the fixings…in whatever fashion grabs you in the moment.  Open a lovely crisp bottle of white wine to cut through the oil of the tuna, olives and anchovies and the salt of the capers and olives and you’ve got dinner on the table!

Bon Appétit!

2011 Meals in Review | part two


as promised…

2011 Meals in Review | part two

July

Gorgonzola Chicken Pasta Salad (a la D’Amico & Sons)

German Potato Salad

Summer Tomato Caprese Stacks

Bastille Day & a Little Liberté with Scallion and Chive Smoked Salmon Spread

 

August

Sour Cream Verde Enchiladas

 

September

Heirloom Tomatoes Bread Salad with Burratta

Zucchini, Summer Squash and Brown Rice Casserole

 

October

Tomato and Gruyere Tart

served with a little salad

Fresh Linguine with Mizithra Cheese and Lightly Dressed Arugula

Traditional Beef Empanadas (made mini!)

A little sampling of delicious items…cheese, olives, toasts, etc.

Niçoise Salad

 

November

Pumpkin Pecan Biscotti

Brioche French Toast

No-Knead Bread

Gougeres

Red Tea, Beef & Sweet Potato Stew

Pumpkin Stuffed with Everything Good

Excuse the phone photo…but that’s what’s left of a scrumptious braised rabbit with pappardelle from this place.

Chestnut Pancetta Stuffing for Thanksgiving

My Thanksgiving plate…and no I didn’t overdo it!

Couldn’t be complete without a slice of pecan pie!

The morning after was no let-down with Pheasant and Waffles topped with a Fried Egg and Mushroom Thyme Gravy!!!

 

December

A weekend trip up north found us eating at the Culinary Institute of America’s restaurant in St. Helena.  The Tasting included 5 delectable bites to whet our appetites.

The polenta sitting under the magnificently cooked piece of beef was quite possibly the best thing on the table.

Duck Confit with a Poached Egg and Frisee

Krumkake Christmas Cookies

Christmas Eve bites including Cremenelli Salami – a little hometown pride!

Christmas Dinner – Tenderloin of Beef, Creamy Dill Carrots and Brussel Sprouts with Bacon

Turkey Tetrazzini

The BEST use of leftover beef ever…sliced beef tenderloin topped with a cold Bernaise sauce

And last but not least, Short Ribs Italiano served over Pappardelle!

 

We’re making some artichoke dip and about to head over to friends to ring in the new year!  Tonight is for looking back and tomorrow, we start fresh.

A Whole New Year!

Happy New Year!

2011 Meals in Review | part one


As I’m a bit behind these days, I noticed while perusing my photos from the past year in search of a couple photos for a new year’s card to send out, how many delicious moments we had in 2011.  What follows is not only what we made, but what we enjoyed! 

The delicious moments of 2011…


January

Rosemary Sea Salt Dinner Rolls (recipe credit: Pioneer Woman)

Creamy Pheasant and Wild Rice Soup

Orechiette with Pheasant, Bacon and Spinach

Butternut Squash, Shallot and Goat Cheese Pizza

Pot Roast…good the first time, better the second…

Cumin-scented Butternut Squash with Onions and Wild Rice

Pot Roast Ravioli

Homemade Fettuccini

Boboli’s done right…!  (yes, you are correct…that is an egg cracked on top peeking out from underneath the arugula and parm!

 

February

yummm…pancakes

Delicate Scrambled Eggs with Truffle Salt

A Birthday dinner at Bouchon

Cod Brandade with Tomato Confit and Fried Sage Leaves

Frisée aux Lardons et Oeuf Poché

Croque Madame

Back at home…Cheese Soufflé

Lump Crab Cakes

Valentine’s Day Cheese Fondue

Tempura and Cold Soba Noodles

Baby Artichoke Gratin (recipe credit: latimes.com)

 

March

Fancied-Up Burgers

Seared Scallops with Cream of Cauliflower Soup

Welsh Rarebit

 

April

April brought with it a trip to Vienna for Woody’s work…

Käsekrainer – near perfect street food

Beef Tartare with all the appropriate accoutrements

Veal Medallions

Finally in the homeland…a full plate of spätzle just for me!

A celebratory meal at Meinl am Graben began with a Veal Carpaccio for Woody

Tortellini with Consommé and Crisped Prosciutto

Honestly…I can hardly remember what exactly this course entailed…but I DO remember that it  was incredibly amazing!

The third course of our prix fixe…again…perfection!

Although I can’t say the name of the place…the fare was delicious

A trip to Vienna without Viennese coffee would be a crime!

Back at home…Pacific Spiny Lobster with Fava Beans and Meyer Lemon

Grilled Cheese Invitational…who says no to that…?

Burrata with Cherry Tomatoes…there were plenty more sandwiches and a lot more cheese, but most disappeared before I could get a shot!

And of course, an annual batch of Deviled Eggs for Easter!

 

May

Fried Chicken Salad with Goat Cheese

Onion & Bacon Tart

Minted English Pea & Lemony Feta Crostini

Another birthday was cause for a trip to the Los Olivos region, some wine tasting and of course a meal or two…

Bistro Burger

Spring Vegetable Pot Roast

Ebelskivers

Savory Lentil Salad

House guests meant a trip to the Original LA Farmer’s Market and an Oyster Po’ Boy

June

Chicken Garlic Sausage & Swiss Chard Flatbread

Potato Salad – Two Ways

Poppyseed Cake with Strawberries and Mascarpone Frosting

Part two coming soon…

Minted English Pea & Lemony Feta Crostini


I love me some summer, and all the light fresh summer dishes that appear at potlucks and barbecues this time of year.  However, I have a confession.  I have a love-hate relationship with peas.  Mushy green things were a common side on my plate growing up and I remember many a night when I sat at the table long after everyone else had finished…and all I had to do was eat 3 more bites of peas.  Gross!  Then I grew up (a little) and met fresh english peas…treated with the respect that such a pretty and perfectly petite vegetable deserved.  I loved them.  I convinced myself that they were two entirely different things that shared no common traits.  I’m still wary of pea dishes and always approach them with suspicion.  This little dish is shockingly simple but more than the sum of its parts.

Minted English Pea & Lemony Feta Crostini

Ingredients:

English peas, shelled
Feta (about 8 oz.)
1-2 tbsp.’s of ½ & ½ or milk
Fresh mint
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste
1 Baguette or crostini toasts
Sea salt for finishing

Start by blanching the peas in heavily salted boiling water for no more than 2-3 minutes.  Before you toss the peas into the pot, prepare a bowl of ice water and place it in the sink.  When the time is up, remove the peas and pour into a colander and then immediately submerge them in the bowl of ice water.  This will shock those little peas and keep them from overcooking and it sets the bright, fresh green color.  Once they have completely cooled, go ahead and drain the peas.

Next, get the feta, drain it and place it in a medium size mixing bowl.  I used half of a 16 oz. package.  Using a fork, mush up the feta and slowly add the ½ & ½ or milk.  Mix it up until it is a nice consistency for spreading on toasts, err on the side of keeping it a little thicker than you think.  First zest the lemon and then slice in half and squeeze all the juice out into a bowl or measuring cup.  Add in a tbsp. of lemon juice, a tsp. of the lemon zest, a sprinkling of salt and a few grinds of fresh black pepper.  This is a taste-as-you-go-recipe…so keep tasting and adding ingredients as needed.  You want a creamy spreadable feta with a floral lemon notes from the zest and a bit of zing from the juice.  The black pepper can be a prominent flavor as well.

Let the spread chill in the fridge for a bit.  Now grab the cooled peas and throw them in a bowl.  Take 5-10 mint leaves and stack them on top of one another, starting on the long side, roll them up like they are a yoga mat and then slice them very thinly.  Poof!  Chiffonade!  Sprinkle the mint into the peas, add some salt and maybe just a touch of lemon juice.  We brought these over to a barbecue…so I packaged everything separately and built the crostini on location…no one likes a soggy crostini.  Oh…did I mention the crostini/toasts…yeah, make them.  (Slice baguette thinly, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt, lay in a single layer on a cookie sheet and then put in a 375º oven for 4-6 minutes – watch them carefully…you want them to dry out a bit and get just barely toasty, remove from oven, flip them over, repeat the drizzling and sprinkling and toss them back in the oven for another few minutes…maybe only 3 – cool completely and store in airtight bags.  Voilá…Crostini!)

Time to assemble the toasts:  spread on lovely layer of feta, place the peas over the top, add a little lemon zest, a little mint and finish with some flaky sea salt.

The other parts of this barbecue are SO worth mentioning…we grilled some white salmon that marinated in 3 mustards, tarragon, olive oil and a little vinegar. we’ve been lucky enough to cook some white king salmon once before!

It’s hard to make asparagus better than when it is lightly oiled and thrown on the grill!

This is Juno, the sweetest Doberman we’ve ever met…she makes our Cleo dog look like a miniature breed.  They are good friends and neither one of them minded when they got to nibble on a little of the cooked salmon skin!

We used some foil under the salmon as we could not bear the thought of losing even the slightest morsel to the slots on the grill.

We finished the salmon with more fresh tarragon and some fresh lemon.  And if you look really closely in the upper right hand corner of the photo…you’ll see some delicious sautéed fennel!  Unfortunately…no other photos are available of the complete dinner since I must have been on a trampoline when I took them – they were THAT blurry!

Sometimes, enjoying the meal with friends, while it is actually hot, is more important than getting the perfect shot!

Bon Appétit!

Roasted Pepper Hot Sauce – Hotter than you think!


It was inevitable.  Eventually we would open our box of weekly vegetables from our CSA, and find we had a whole lot of something that we aren’t quite sure what to do with.  Peppers.  Many peppers.  Please don’t misunderstand my conundrum…I appreciate peppers, I enjoy their flavors…in small quantities.  I’ve mentioned before that I have a little problem with spice.  As in heat…I am a complete and total self-admitted pathetic wuss when it comes to spicy heat!  I’m trying, really, I am!

After holding onto them for a few days…hoping they would make themselves into some wonderful dish…we finally knew what to make.

Inspired by our local taco joint, and their amazing hot sauce made purely of crack goodness that Woody has often considered offering them cash for one of squeeze bottles of sauce…hot sauce it was.

We started out roasting the peppers to mellow their flavor just a bit.  We used bell peppers, jalapeños and serrano peppers.  The skins are easy to remove; once you’ve blackened the skins, place the peppers in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap.  This steams the pepper and helps the skin release.  After the peppers have sat for 10 minutes, the skins should peel off easily and a little running water can help the process along.  I de-seeded a few of the peppers and then threw everything into the blender together.

Peppers , garlic, onions, lemon basil (’cause we had some) and cilantro went, I added a little olive oil, a little vinegar, and of course salt and pepper.  BEWARE…when you remove the blender lid after puréeing, don’t lean over and take a deep breath of the hot sauce fumes…it went straight to my eyes and throat…and Woody laughed.  I made him sample a bit, we adjusted the seasonings and called it good.

For dinner that night, I made cornmeal crusted pan-fried tilapia with a quick pico of onions and cherry tomatoes served with cilantro rice and black beans, some roasted spaghetti squash and sliced avocado with a dollop of sour cream.  Unfortunately, I can’t always stop everyone else from digging in to get a few pictures…so the photo below in my plate…and therefore the hot sauce does not make an appearance on my plate.  Details!

 

Sous Vide Wild White Salmon with Asparagus & Israeli Couscous


We splurged.  We couldn’t resist.  And with our sous vide set-up…we knew we would not be disappointed with the results.  It’s like purchasing a really expensive bottle of wine with a complete guarantee that when you choose to open the bottle…it will be perfectly aged…no matter how many cross-country U-Haul moves, heat waves, cold spells, jostling and climate changes it survives.  Guaranteed.  That is what our sous vide has done for our cooking.  Given us the confidence to purchase wonderful, (expensive), amazing ingredients knowing that we won’t can’t screw it up.

Who are we to say “no” to the nice woman at the Fish Truck at the Saturday farmer’s market, when she tells us she has a beautiful WILD WHITE KING SALMON!  I haven’t seen one of these since I lived in Wrangell, AK.  Now…I know what you’re thinking…”uhhhhh…that salmon looks pretty pink to me…not a lot of white going on there.”  Here is where you’re wrong…it may not be completely white like halibut, but it is much paler than true wild salmon, and there are always variations.   White king salmon, sometimes called an ivory king is a rarity…something like 1 in every 100 king salmon are white fleshed.  Way back in ole ancient times…I mean…probably more like a couple of decades ago…white kings were cast aside or sold for much cheaper than the typical dark and richly colored king salmon and namesake of many a paint color.  Now they are highly desirable and the price reflects the demand and rarity.

I had always believed and been told that the paler flesh of the white salmon was due to a difference in diet – but apparently, many scientists disagree and think it must be a genetic difference.  The theory on the diet is that white salmon fed on squid and fish as oppose to krill.   Salmon generally feed on shrimp and crabs which contain high levels of carotenoids, or natural pigments found in plants and animals, and include beta-carotene, therefore giving them a darker coloring.  Whatever the reason…I think the fish is delectable.

Our menu included Israeli couscous, very skinny asparagus, and a Meyer lemon butter emulsion…oh, and of course the wild white king salmon prepared sous vide.  First step was to brine the fish for a short while.  we covered each salmon filet in kosher salt for 5-10 minutes.  During the cooking process, albumin can leach out of the fish.  This is a white stuff that can accumulate during poaching or baking.  Cooking sous vide, in a sealed environment, the albumin can become a little unsightly as there is no where for it to go.  However, be careful with how long you brine as it does weaken the cell walls and can turn a nice firm piece of fish very mushy if left for too long, or brined in a solution with very high salinity.

Woody’s new favorite = Israeli couscous.  After a quick search, its namesake is more from shape than from ingredients and it is more similar to orzo pasta than the typical semolina couscous used frequently in north African recipes and regional dishes.   I love it as a versatile side dish.

Although it is the complete off-season for citrus, we are still pulling the last of our Meyer lemons off of our tree in the front yard.  In preparation for the butter emulsion sauce…zest a lemon.  You’ll use the lemon zest in the sous vide packets with the salmon as well.

I’m a believer in staying organized while you cook…which doesn’t always include staying ahead of the dirty dishes piling up in the sink.  But some would say it is more important to stay ahead of the dishes on your stove and in your oven.  Dishes in the sink can wait – sorry Woody.  He is my whirlwind sous-chef-cleaning-machine.  Sometimes, I will slice up half an onion, turn around to add it to the pan, turn back around, and the other half has already been wrapped up and placed in the fridge.  So…he gets appropriately annoyed when I’ve been cooking up a storm…and it looks like a tornado came through the kitchen and pulled out 80% of our dishes, utensils and tools, smeared them with batter, sauce, crumbs and grease and strewn them around the kitchen haphazardly.  (thanks for being there to clean up after me husband)

Prep your onion for the couscous, a fine dice will do nicely.

Once you have brined the salmon, rinse off all the salt and then pat them dry.  Slide them into the plastic bag for the vacuum-sealing, sprinkle in some lemon zest and add a pat of cold butter.

We use the dry vacuum and seal button on our vacuum-sealer.  We’ve only had a few minor disasters when trying to seal foods to sous vide.  One may have included spilling marinating liquid from a cow tongue all over our dog Cleo – who was confounded as to why the intoxicating smell of meat juice followed her wherever she went for at least the next 12 hours – despite our best effort to clean her up.  Note to self:  don’t vacuum seal when there is a whole bunch of liquid that could get sucked out…and therefore flood your kitchen counter…or alternatively…be ready with a large roll of paper towels.

Begin sweating your onions…no color on these guys, add a little salt as well.

The asparagus were SOOOO skinny I almost felt as if we could cook them enough by waving them over the top of a steamy pan…but instead we tossed them in a pan of shallow salted water for 2 minutes…maybe 3 at the most.

And then immediately into an ice bath to shock them and stop the cooking process.   Set them aside.

Since the bags used to sous vide can sometimes leave a “seam” where the sides come together around the edge of the protein being cooked, I decided to top the fish with a panko breadcrumb crust.  How can pouring butter over crunchy dried breadcrumbs with herbs (dill) and salt and pepper be a bad thing?  I dare you to try to answer that one.  I double-dare you even.

Melt butter…

Add panko, chopped dill, sprinkle with salt and pepper…

And stir…

Back to the couscous, once the onions have sweat, pour in the couscous and stir to coat…even letting them brown up just a *bit*.  This helps develop the flavor and the starch.

Then pour in 2 cups of boiling water, cover, turn the heat down to low and simmer…I think it took between 10-15 minutes…but check the box for specific instructions.

Here’s the set-up.  Thermal immersion circulator in upper left, and the bin is from a restaurant supply store.  The circulator gets clamped on the side and we fill the water bath with distilled water to avoid any buildup of minerals on the equipment.

We had the temperature set at 60º C which is 140º F, and we put the fish in for approximately 20 minutes.

The thermal immersion circulator is very precise, we check it with an instant read thermometer and make any adjustments using the dial on the upper left (-1 to +1) for calibration.  It is constantly flicking it’s heating element on and off to regulate the temperature of the water without the temperature fluctuating more than a degree.

The timer beeps, and the couscous is ready, a quick stir, a touch of salt, and it is ready to be plated…almost.

I envisioned asparagus spears on the plate…Woody envisioned mini-asparagus rounds tossed in with the couscous…we compromised.  I trimmed the bottom third off of the asparagus spears and made lovely mini-cuts.

And saved the tips of the spears for the plate.

Oh…how could I almost forget the butter emulsion sauce.  My dad has been overheard saying, “This sauce alone, was worth the price of cooking school.”  Super simple…and I almost hesitate to share and let the secret out…ummm…I’m having second thoughts.  Okay…I can’t give it up yet.  But I can list ingredients, right…?  That won’t betray the secret of the sauce…right?  Ingredients: water, cold butter, lemon zest, a little lemon juice, salt and pepper, herbs (if wanted)…hint:  it’s an emulsion.

It is amazing…I’ll do some deep personal growth and see if I have the capability of sharing the method in a future post.  What?  I’ve got to hold onto a little mystery.

Once the fish is done, remove the bags from the water bath and cut the tops off.  Carefully remove them from the bag and place them on a rack, straight onto the plate, into a hot pan to sear the sides, or a cutting board if you’ll be slicing it.  Remember, we are adding a delicious crust of panko and dill, so we placed the filets on a sheet pan with a drying rack on it.

Admire the delicious beauty…

Gently smush the topping onto the fish.

Now pull out your blowtorch.  Yep…blowtorch…is there a problem?  You should get one of these for your kitchen…especially if you sous vide.  And go to the hardware store…not a fancy-shmancy cooking and entertaining store – which are great…but those mini culinary torches…are well, mini…and you could be another couple of years older by the time you’ve completed the job.

Dish below has been torched, plated, sauce ladled, and asparagus posed.

We tried one other method of browning the crust, using the broiler.  It worked better than the torch for this particular job…it brought out the butter and nicely toasted the crumbs with less singeing.

Texturally, it was amazing…and unfortunately I have no photos after we began eating…it disappeared quickly.  The light dill flavor with the skinny asparagus and couscous…I would like it again for dinner tonight, please!

We finished the meal with some fresh raspberries that needed nothing else.

Cleo enjoyed the meal in her own way as well – salmon skin.  It went down in one gulp.

With lots of summer evening light left, we played a few rounds of cribbage and finished off the wine.

I’m pretty sure I won, but Woody won the last game we played…so he can’t feel too bad.

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